BANDIPUR, PARADISE FOR PEACE LOVING TOURISTS

A magnificent view of old Bandipur. Photo: LB Thapa

By LB THAPA in Bandipur

(This article was originally published in The Rising Nepal)

Bandipur has attracted more domestic and foreign tourists today than it did in the past. A hilltop settlement, Bandipur is a perfect destination for those visitors who prefer peace, nature, and tranquility.

Bandipur is about 148km away from Kathmandu and 80km from Pokhara. To go to Bandipur, a sharp turn should be taken from Dumre Bazaar to scale rising mountains. An 8 km long serpentine road from Dumbre Bazaar passes through several jagged turns to reach Bandipur. The more we rise with each turn, the better view unfolds before our eyes.

Bandipur should not be compared with Thamel of Kathmandu and Lakeside of Pokhara. Bandipur is different in the sense that this old town has not been polluted by the meddling crowd, dance bars, and ghazal nights. The town is quiet, and therefore those tourists who like no cacophony will always find Bandipur a perfect place.

In the past, more people would visit Bandipur every day, as the town was the district headquarters of the Tanahun district. But after the construction of the Prithvi Highway, the district headquarters was shifted from Bandipur to Damauli. As a result, the business in Bandipur sharply plummeted. Gradually Bandipur was lost in oblivion for some years. But when Nepali tourism began attracting visitors, gradually more domestic and foreign visitors started visiting Bandipur…and now the trend is on the rise.     

There are some quality hotels and a few resorts in Bandipur, which offer a comfortable stay for the visitors. So, budget tourists and luxury tourists can both enjoy a comfortable stay in Bandipur. However, Bandipur is a small town that lies on a hilltop. The only problem is that the town does not have enough space to expand further. The town is located on a hill, and behind it has a huge, sloppy cliff. Due to its difficult geographical condition, Bandipur has limited options to grow further. In the meantime, construction of buildings on the sloppy mountains could be extremely hazardous, as last year’s earthquake has taught a costly lesson. Some ravaged buildings in Bandipur are the testimony to the fact that no further risk should be taken by constructing buildings on the sloppy areas.  

 All photos by LB Thapa

Hikmat Pun, a retired Indian army man, has recently repaired his ancestral home, which was damaged by last year’s earthquake. “We have been living in Bandipur since time immemorial. What I know is that my ancestors served the early Malla kings of Bandipur. After Bandipur was annexed to the Gorkha kingdom, our ancestors stopped serving in the army. However, you can see my ancestral home, whose windows and doors bore the marks of excellent woodcrafting on pillars, windows, and doors. My grandfather said that Bhaktapur artists had made designs on every piece of wood in our house”.  

The good thing about Bandipur sightseeing is that most of the fine places are located at nearby distances. The town is so small that no taxi service has been deemed necessary. In fact, the entire Bandipur is a treasure trove where the visitors can feast their eyes on nature’s splendor, which is scattered everywhere. There are some places worth visiting indeed.  

The Khadga Devi temple is different from other temples. The temple is opened only once a year on the seventh day of Dasain, the biggest Hindu festival. Unlike other temples, there are no idols of any gods and goddesses inside the temple. There is a sacred sword instead. Though there is no concrete evidence, it is said that a cosmic power had given the sword to Mukunda Sen, the king of Palpa (1518-1553 AD).

The Bindhabasini temple is located in the main bazaar area. This temple is built in pagoda style, which resembles the temples built in Kathmandu and Bhaktapur. The Mahalaxmi temple is also located on the main bazaar, nearby the Bindhabasini temple. The temple attracts more tourists for its rich architectural show. The temple’s struts and tympanum are decorated with brilliantly carved mythical characters. Unfortunately, the original statue of goddess Mahalaxmi was stolen, and now there is a replica of the original idol.

Tundikel is a wide open area from where tourists can have a beautiful view of the Himalayas. Some famous mountain peaks such as Dhaulagiri, Machhapuchhre, Langtang, Manaslu, and Ganesh Himal, among others, can be seen from Tundikhel. From here one can also see the peaks of the legendary Gorkha Palace and the famous religious pilgrimage Manakamana temple.

The most thrilling place in Bandipur is Purano Kot, also called Gurungche Hill. During the time of Malla kings, this peak had a fort from which the soldiers would keep an eye on the entire territory of Bandipur. There are stone steps leading to the peak of the hill. After walking about 30 minutes, one can easily reach the peak of the hill. Most of the tourists to Bandipur walk up to this hilltop to see the morning sunrise. The flat area on the peak allows the tourists to walk around and have a great panoramic view around Bandipur.

The visitors who have a taste for literature and books must visit Shree Padma Library. This library was first established during the Rana regime, and it has still been serving its purpose. The library has accommodated several old and new books.

There is no doubt Bandipur is replete with natural beauty and ancient history and worth seeing places. However, looking at several monuments and the places of touristic interest, it is very clear that the concerned authorities responsible for promoting tourism in Bandipur have done almost nothing. Temples and ancient houses are in dilapidated conditions. Almost 90% or even more old houses need an immediate facelift, but the concerned authority has not felt it necessary yet. Except for the main street, the other streets are in bad condition. Looking at the condition of those streets, it can be easily understood that those streets must not have been repaired for years.

If local administration and private tourism entrepreneurs want to pull more tourists round the year, then they must work hard to promote tourism in Bandipur before it is too late. 

Thank you very much for reading this article. I hope you liked this article. I will be glad if you take a little time to make a comment about this article. Your comment is highly appreciated.

I stand at the edge of a small hilltop in Bandipur. Photo: Goma Gurung

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